East of Chiclayo, a day’s journey travelling deep into the interior take you to the town of Chachapoyas. The civilisation of the same name fought the Incas from high forest strongholds and the whole area is littered with ruins, tombs and mummies. The most spectacular site is the fortress of Kuelap, perched on the shoulder of a 3,000-metre mountain. Dating from the 9th century the citadel houses a complex of more than 400 homes, palaces and temples protected within a 20 metre-high wall.