My work trip to the Seychelles in June, 2025, was extremely rewarding. I discovered a new boat, saw two Praslin hotels, learnt about a new Aldabra expedition boat, and stayed on Alphonse island for a full week. I was able to inspect their newly refurbished Beach Bungalows and sample all their truly exciting and unique activities.
Let’s start with the boat trip. Although it’s normally a seven night cruise of the Inner Islands, I only stayed for three nights but that was enough time to gain a good impression of the operation. The Sea Star is a 40m tri-masted yacht with nine crew, classic wood trimmings, spacious common areas and nine air-conditioned en-suite cabins (always opt for the Master Cabin if possible) sleeping a maximum of 20 guests. Its sister boat, S/Y SEA BIRD, is almost identical. The catering is very good and the crew lend an authentically Seychellois note to the whole cruise experience.
The itinerary runs from November to April and takes in the Inner (Granitic) Islands, including Praslin, La Digue, Aride (if weather permits) and Cousin. Various onshore excursions are provided, such as the Vallee de Mai, home to the endemic palm with its curiously shaped nuts (the world’s largest). Diving and snorkelling boat trips are offered throughout the cruise, and kayaks and SUPs are also available.
The standard of luxury is mid-level and the value for money is very good. Cruises depart on a Saturday from Victoria, Mahe, and return six nights later, with the last night spent at dock.
Now in its 25th year, Lemuria is my number one five-star recommendation for Praslin, reinforced by my latest visit. The property straddles two spectacular white-sand beaches, one of which is reserved for the many turtles which come ashore there to lay their eggs. There are three extremely good restaurants (all available to half-board guests), three pools and a range of room options. The world-class 18 hole golf course is a draw for keen players as well as beginners, and green fees are included in your room rate (buggies, clubs etc are extra).
My four-star Praslin favourite is L’Archipel, a long established, locally owned Seychellois hotel occupying an enviable hillside position with a near-private beach. If you are fit, the upper rooms afford fabulous views, but if you don’t fancy all those steps there are a number of lower and ground level rooms available: early booking is usually needed to secure those. It was a joy to stay there again in the spacious room and be looked after by the friendly staff.
My trip highlight was Alphonse, an Outer Island one hour’s flight from Mahe in a pressurised Beechcraft plane. This was my third trip there and I relished spending a whole week this time, mainly to sample the wide range of activities available. These include amazing diving, great reef snorkelling, unique sailfish snorkelling, special flats lunches, fly fishing lessons, deep sea and fly fishing, sea kayaking, manta snorkelling/spotting, riding bicycles around the island and lounging by the beach bar to watch the sun set. My personal highlight was a visit to St Francois, a completely pristine atoll and island near Alphonse which has never been inhabited nor invaded by rats or cats. There are large colonies of red footed boobies and frigatebirds, huge numbers of hermit crabs and some of their much larger cousins, coconut crabs, and signs of turtle nesting all along the beach. We walked the beautiful beach then headed inland to a wide mangrove area where young sharks can be seen swimming in the shallows.
There are three accommodation options on Alphonse: 22 Beach Bungalows, detached A-frames set in large private plots of land ending at the seafront, with space for two adults and one young child – they are all being fully renovated as I write. Five Beach Villas, sleeping up to two adults and two children, with private plunge pools and spacious interiors. Two Beach Retreats, each with four bedrooms sleeping eight adults and four children, with the option to close off two bedrooms thereby making it a two bedroom villa with bags of space and private pool.
From December 2025 the lodge becomes All Inclusive, so nearly all drinks and activities will be included.
ALDABRA – NEW EXPEDITION BOAT
At the time of writing, final information is expected soon regarding a new expedition vessel due to sail to Aldabra in 2026 via many of the remarkable Outer Islands of the Seychelles. Legendary Aldabra, the world’s largest raised atoll, holds a mythical place in the minds of marine cognoscenti. Although access is strictly controlled, special permits enable one to visit the atoll to see some of the estimated 140,000 giant tortoises, the endemic flightless rail and thousands of seabirds, and experience the pristine marine environment. Divers and snorkelers alike will appreciate the healthy corals and abundant Indian Ocean sea life. Watch this space!
BEST TIME TO GO TO THE SEYCHELLES
There are two distinct monsoon seasons. The Southeast Monsoon usually runs from May to October. Although the winds can be strong and the seas quite rough, it’s generally cooler and less humid than the Northwest Monsoon, December to March, which has gentler winds and calmer waters. One should avoid staying on western coasts during the Southeast Monsoon, when swimming is difficult due to rough seas and lots of seagrass being blown onshore.
